So, I'm sitting in Fido's (thatís fee-dohs), squinting out at the ferry dock from the darkened cave of my sun-protected seat at the bar, watching NASCAR on the boob tube, and talking with someone who just finished a dive at the Hol Chan Marine Preserve. There's a guy sitting behind me with a white macaw perched on his shoulder, Bob Marley's rendition of Knockin' On Heaven's Door is drowning out the sound of the televisions, and all is right with the world.

But a bursting bubble in the Belikin I'm drinking brings an odd thought. I've been in San Pedro on Ambergris Caye several times before and nothing, really, seems to have changed. Hey. Maybe I never left.

But little clues hint that any long-term fugue isnít happening. No, there are some differences in Ambergris (AC to locals) and San Pedro (the main town/capitol of AC). While there is the usual hustle and bustle down Front Street, Front Street is now named Barrier Reef Drive. Where once San Pedro provided relief from the demands of desktop and laptop computers, Internet cafes now abound. Ambergris also once provided a respite from ringing phones, cellular or otherwise. Now BTL (Belize Telecommunications Limited) payphone boxes are liberally strewn about and signs for rental cellphones are everywhere. Where once San Pedro sat on its own island and getting over to North Ambergris required using the hand ferry, a bridge now connects it to the rest of the island.

Yes, some things have changed on this popular tourist/watersport/dive spot just 30 miles northeast of Belize City, but then a lot hasnít changed as well.

The people are still friendly and tourism oriented, there's rarely any pressure exerted by the various street/beach merchants, the streets of San Pedro are still compacted dirt, cars are still not allowed and golf carts are as ubiquitous as ever. The sun still shines white-hot, the palm trees sway, the water's still a million shades of blue and still framed by the white border of waves on a barrier reef that is still relatively healthy. For whatever the changes, San Pedro and Ambergris remain pretty much the same as they always have been.

Ambergris Caye is the largest of over 200 islands and islets off the shore of Belize. It's approximately 25 miles long and nears two miles wide in certain areas. With its east coast protected by a 190-mile long barrier beach (the second longest barrier beach in the world), it abuts Mexico on its north end, separated by a hand-dug canal dating to pre-Columbian times. But there's no similarity to the Mexican resorts; Ambergris dances to its own drummer when it comes to tourism, and you won't find crowded beaches, high-rise hotels, or Girls Gone Wild cinematographers on Ambergris. No, think of Ambergris more as the rest of the Caribbean basin 30 years ago.

San Pedro

Today's San Pedro is thought to have a population of around 8,000 Sanpedranos, while the island's totals population adds another 2,000 to that. The population has effectively doubled in the past six or seven years. One reason behind the influx; the belief held by many Belizeans that Ambergris' tourist structure makes it an ideal place to improve oneís lot in life.

Aside from the name change to Front Street, Middle and Back streets are now called Pescador and Coconut drives respectively. Thereís an embargo on importing automobiles so the golf carts (and bicycles) still reign. The new bridge crossing the channel connecting the north and south ends of Ambergris has a nominal toll that will be abolished once the bridge is paid off. While some were skeptical about doing away with the rope ferry, many think itís a good idea.

Thereís a new police and fire station back on Coconut Drive, new restaurants pop up as often as dolphins on a boatís bow wave, one new supermarket (Island Supermarket) specializes in American labels, and Leonardo DiCaprio has been known to frequent the Karibbean Water Sports shop right behind the landmark Estelís Restaurant (pick up a fruit filled jack while youíre passing Estelís). Thereís a new sushi bar and a newer steak joint featuring USDA steaks located on the second level of Fidoís. Casa Picasso offers ó besides world-class food ó the best ëtinis on the island (all shaken not blender-ized), and you still call the water taxi to get around the island.

But the best ice cream in the world is still at Manelly's (do not pass San Pedro without having a coconut cone at Manelly's), Elvi's Kitchen is still the place to go for the Mayan buffet on Friday nights, Ruby's Cafe is where you grab a quick breakfast and BC's on the Beach is still a hotspot for Sunday barbecue, just as Celi's is the spot for Wednesday night barbecues.

Activities

Diving (ands snorkeling) the Hol Chan preserve or Shark and Ray Alley is as much fun as ever, and the barrier reef dives are impressive as is the possibility of spotting whatever comes in from the deep; and, of course, you have to make a trip to the famed Blue Hole. You can try your hand at every water toy known to man on the beachfront, thereís top shelf fishing to be had, the list of things to do goes on and on. And if a list of things to do that goes on and on isn't on your agenda, thereís still plenty of nothing to do on AC, and plenty of places to not do it.

The Outer Islands

Unlike Ambergris, there is very little that changes on the out islands. Belize is blessed with some beautiful and remote atolls and islets that exemplify what your mind pictures when the words tropical island are mentioned. Desolate empty spots of land, labyrinth mangroves, white limestone sand beaches, coconuts dropping off swaying palms and a biomass, under, on top of and over the water, that astounds. From the Sapodillas in the far south, to the nature preserves around Laughing Bird Caye and Glovers Reef atoll and Man O War Caye, to lesser known dots like Funk or Long Loco and Wee Wee cayes to the huge Turneffe Islands atoll system, there is something for everyone. Some are known for diving, some snorkeling, fishing, birding and some are private. Scattered throughout the entire breadth of the islands are less than three dozen hotels and resorts, catering to aficionados of various sports and activities as well a, with word of Belize's offshore delights spreading among travel cognoscenti, people looking for luxury with their adventure.

In the Turneffe Islands, one upscale resort is the Turneffe Island Lodge on Caye Bokel at the southern tip of the lagoon. Ideally located for dive trips to the famed Blue Hole or four dozen closer sites, there's fantastic reef, flats and mangrove fishing, and just as many fine opportunities to sit back with your feet on a palm tree and a cold Belikin in your hand.

Not far away is 166-acre Blackbird Caye and the Blackbird Caye Resort, catering to a more gung ho diving crowd, with colorful, comfortable, beachfront, air-conditioned cabanas and lots of very complacent iguanas (called Wish-willies), tons of aviary life, and for those who require it, an airstrip.

And that's not to forget mainland Belize with more adventure than you can shake a stick at. Trek through Cockscombe Wildlife Sanctuary and Jaguar Preserve, visit untold numbers of famous Mayan ruins, take a cruise down the Monkey River, go caving, walk the jungle treetops, go 4x4ing in the wilderness (try it in rainy season. I guarantee you'll get stuck!), and see wonders of nature that will literally make your jaw drop.

No matter what you crave, action or a hammock in the shade, you can find it in Belize.

For information about Belize, Contact Belize Tourism at 800-624-0686; or at www.travelbelize.org.